Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Reader Input

What Would YOU Like to See?

            As I near the end of my trip here in Tanzania, there is still much I am curious about. More importantly, one of the goals of this blog was to inform and inspire others in many ways, and even instill curiosity upon readers. I hope I have done so—but it’s not over yet!
            What would YOU like to see? What would you like to learn about Tanzania? Tell me.
            Comment on my Facebook. Tweet at me. Email me. Post a comment on the blog.
            I will try my best to address and answer it!
I am leaving for a three day safari to Seregenti National Park (hopefully to see the massive wildebeest migration) and N’gorongoro Crater (one of the 7 Wonders of the World)! I will check my email and social media when I get back to see what you’ve said.

Twitter: @nicholasotis

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Sustainable Community Empowerment

Mobilizing Societal Change
For those interested in community, global health settings, sustainability, research, non-profit, or humanitarian (Paul Farmer-esque) concepts: I think this will appeal to you, especially.
                CHASE is a research-project-turned-community-organization headed by two Harvard doctors, Tony Earls and Maya Carlson. Well-known in the Moshi area of Tanzania, CHASE stands for “Child Health and Social Ecology”, and aims to empower children to have active roles in educating and leading their community in prominent health issues, such as HIV/AIDS and malaria. The program rests on the notion that individual improvements and self-worth can lead to a collective effort to change a society (also known as “collective efficacy”). The program began as a research project out of Harvard in 2002, and concluded in 2007. CHASE proved very positive results on the concepts of efficacy.
However, less than 10% of all community research continues into the community after it finishes—and thus Tony and Maya have established a sustainable continuation of the project (no research) as an official Community-Based Organization.
                Seeing Tony and Maya “struggle”—and by that I mean many things in CHASE do not go as planned—makes me relieved. No, that’s not cynical. I mean, here are these two brilliant Harvard doctors that are working to implement really sustainable change within a developing country community, and they are met with obstacles at every turn. Nobody is immune. Sitting in a classroom, I always imagined public health interventions in a developing country to go well; us academics have resources to give—knowledge, materials, trained staff—and in a developing country they do not have these to the same extent. So, the plan is straightforward: go help. But I have learned very quickly that such scenarios are naïve daydreams. Nothing is linear.
                CHASE has been met with rejection from local grant funders when in dire need of funds, miscommunications with locals, theft, and more. The system in which they work is often dysfunctional, and occasionally, corrupt. Tony and Maya get things done at all costs though—staying up late into the night with work, and waking early the next morning to continue.
                Lorraine says Tony has told her many times: ‘you have an obligation to use your skills to further societal development.’ People like that are my role models. Undoubtedly.
               
                Tony, Maya, and I arrive at the small CHASE office located in a local health clinic. The health clinic is a complex of three painted cement buildings. In the waiting areas, the benches are absolutely full. The building adjacent to ours is the maternal building, and there again, benches are packed with women and their babies in lap and arm. Many are waiting to get their babies weighed, measured, or immunized. For now, the local doctor that Tony and Maya work with is out of his office; he has business somewhere outside of Moshi for a few hours. His wooden office door is open, and patients have filled office chairs inside, and benches outside. They stare as we peek into the office. Tony says the wait for medicine in Tanzania is notoriously bad. You need to get to the clinic in the morning to have the assurance that you will be seen the same day.
                Tanzania has a voluntary public health insurance program (there is private insurance too). In this system, you pay a minimum of 10,000 Tanzanian Shillings per year (approx. $6), and receive every service totally free. The rate is different based on family size. You can pay more if you wish, or not at all. The fees to visit a health clinic or office without this health coverage are 1,000-2,000Tsh per visit ($1 = 1600Tsh), one CHASE worker estimates. But the system doesn’t really work that well. If you are a healthier family, you might not need health services that often. And, if you’re healthy, the chances are higher that you are wealthier as well. Hence, you don’t attend the clinics, and don’t see the need to give money as it’s not financially worth it for your family. As we stand in one corner of the waiting area, Tony and I both marvel at these facts and system of health care together. Health is arguably the most vital component of a community, and deserves much attention.
                What Tony and Maya are attempting to do with CHASE and community health is right. It’s community engagement and, more importantly, empowerment. They are setting up a system that will leave the starting line with training wheels, but they will soon be shed. The chain will churn, the gears will be adjusted as those riding see fit, and the community will move towards the goal of a finish line (although as another mentor of mine, Dr. Rife, always says: “There is no finish line”). The most important part? The community will take control and make their own choices about how health should be addressed with the help of all ages.
                The TOMS book, Start Something That Matters, writes on a sustainable health non-profit called Surgeons OverSeas. Here’s how the founders, Dr. Peter Kingham and Dr. Adam Kushner describe it:
“As surgeons, we know how good it feels to go to developing countries and do a large number of operations, but we realized that if we could teach local surgeons, or even help local surgeons teach junior doctors in their own country, we could really make a difference. The local surgeons are the experts. We can assist with teaching materials, supplies, and moral support, but for the long term it’s up to them. It’s their country after all; shouldn’t they have the skills to care for their own population?”

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Photo Friday Round IV


Week 4: June 1 – June 6

(Wiki Nne: Kwanza Juni mpaka Sita Juni)


Here’s to the Photo Friday that’s seldom on Friday!


I wade out into the water to get this shot of a small, anchored boat at sunset in Kendwa.

Tanzanian Friendship

“Safari Nyumbani”
“The Journey Home”

My journey back from Zanzibar to Moshi looked something like this: ferry from 9-11:30am, daladala (small bus) from 12-1:30pm, basi (large bus) from 2pm-1am. Safari ndefu (long trip).

I don’t know if I would’ve made it home without the help and friendship of strangers:

While waiting in the ferry terminal, I meet a Zanzibari man. We continue our conversation while we board, he and convinces the ship officials to let me take my bag instead of essentially checking it. The bag has no ID tags because it is an old, empty sack of rice (seriously) that another stranger in Zanzibar found for me; I didn’t have any more room in my small backpack due to a larger gift that I had bought. In the economy class, I sit next to a mama, na mume na mtoto zake (a mother, and her husband and child). We talk for most of the ferry ride, and when we arrive in Dar es Salaam, she shows me the way to the daladala stand, waits half an hour with me for the right one, and then joins me for most of that bus ride. Ironically, jina lake ni Saada(her name is Saada), similar to the Kiswahili word for “help” (msaada). On that same daladala, I meet an accountant named Gabriel , who overhears me asking people in Swahili if they are going to the bus station. He says he can help me find a bus, and so yet another stranger keeps me company and helps me stay afloat. Thanks to him, I barely catch the last bus leaving for Moshi that day. He rides some of the way towards his workplace, and leaves after we exchange phone numbers and emails. After the bumpy and bone-jarring eleven hour ride home—which includes stopping to fix most of the tires—he texts me the next day to see if I’ve made it safely.

Now here’s a story that I think sums up Tanzanian views towards friendship:

The next day, ninakula chakula ya mchana (I am eating lunch) with a man named Johnny from the new non-profit project I’m involved in. Johnny introduces me to friend, but then has to take a phone call. His friend, Jerry, and I are talking in Swahili. After five minutes I ask, kind of redundantly (because my conversation skills aren’t the greatest yet in this language), “So Johnny ni rafiki yako?” (Johnny is your friend, huh?)

He answers me back with: “Ndiyo, na wewe ni rafiki yangu pia” (Yes, and you are my friend too).


Boom. Light bulb! I realize his words describe the Tanzanian culture of friendship perfectly!

Friday, June 7, 2013

North Star

"Fears Revisited"

If there’s one thing that I’ve done a lot of in Zanzibar, it’s think about the future. I realize that in Tanzania, I’ve come up with more questions about my life and my future than I’ve answered here. The fact of the matter is, I never thought that would be the case. I figured I’d return home with a new sense of who I was, knowing exactly what I wanted the next step to be. “I want to work at this type of nonprofit after this next degree in nutrition. Check. Okay, what’s next?” Before I left, I even told those who asked about my future plans ‘after this summer, it’ll all come together.’ Nice; I had it down! In reality, that great epiphany I had imagined hasn’t happened to me yet—not one that I really feel all the way down to my bones. I’ve just come up with questions that make my head hurt.

During this reflection, I realize that all my unanswered questions actually stem from fears that I have. I write them down in my journal. Maybe this will help me feel better, I think.

  1.  I won’t actually help anybody sustainably. It takes a lot to really change outcomes or the course of a life for another.
  2.  I’m not sure which field I want to be a part of: nutrition or education.
  3. If I decide to move around—Tanzania, England, Teach for America, Peace Corps—I will be alone in my travels (friends, family).



There are, of course, more, but they are generally centered around these three. I put down my journal and pick up my book Start Something That Matters, written by the founder of TOMS shoes, Blake Mycoskie. It’s passionate and insightful. I come upon these three questions in one of the chapters:

  • If you didn’t have to worry about money, what would you do with your time?
  • What kind of work would you want to do?
  • What cause would you serve?

I sit back and think about a similar conversation that I had last year: my good friend Daniel Wu and I were talking in the living room about entrepreneurship. He said that he’d read an article about an Indian man who started an eye care system. Before the venture, the man had barely any money or resources, and even less education in business, but knew he wanted to help those crippled by blindness (it was prevalent in India as a whole). Decades later, his hospital network is an extreme success: despite his death, the clinic treats millions of patients every year, and he had previously trained countless numbers of ophthalmologists who went on to treat even more patients. Thus, his impact has been estimated to include about 40% of the world’s eye care patients in one way or another. (*Google: Dr. Govindappa Venkataswamy or “Infinite Vision”)

To his success, it’s been cited that Dr. V had a North Star; a goal; a guiding light by which to navigate. And that was the single most important piece that held all the other pieces together.

            To me, this story has been invaluable (Thanks, Wu). In times of uncertainty, I think that despite all the question marks I may have about what I’ll be doing and where I’ll be going in the future, it’s okay. Here there is a distinct divergence between roads of passivity and trust. For now, I have to walk that road of trusting myself. I have a North Star of helping others; it’s all I can ask for at present.

            Ask yourself: what are your fears? About your career, where you are going, your happiness? I know a lot my friends are thinking about this—it’s the age where it really starts. Friends, write your fears down. Yes, honestly, it sucks to do so, because it’s kind of like facing them. But write your fears down, then answer those questions from the TOMS book above.



Check it out and see if it helps. Maybe then you will find, or redefine, your North Star.

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Zanzibar

Tarehe Mbili Juni

            I wake up early to catch a basi (bus) with Baba to the airport. Leo (today), I’m making my way to the island of Zanzibar for a likizo (vacation) with the intent of reflecting on my travels so far, and enjoying myself. I’m flying from Kilimanjaro airport to Dar es Salaam, and ferrying over to the island from there.


            I leave at saa tatu na nusu (9:30am), and I arrive at my hotel in Zanzibar around saa kumi na mbili (6pm). It’s a long day of traveling, but I soon find out that it’s worth it.


            Zanzibar is a unique island: a blend of culture, tourism, beauty, and history. From spice trade and infamous slavery to great Arab buildings and white-sand beaches, there’s no shortage of things to see. I suggest you do a Google Image search for the famous beaches.


            I spend all of the next day exploring the capital of Stone Town. It’s got many small allies lined with little shops and businesses, and there’s seemingly no order to the allies’ alignment. I find the church that is the historic spot for the slave trade that used to run here. I take the tour in Swahili for practice, and to my own surprise, understand a lot (yes, there’s a little bit of help in English, but not a lot!). After, I wander for hours, work on my bargaining skills in the stores, and come out by the water again, this time down the coast from the port. I sit on a stone wall and enjoy the scenes in front of me.


            I then visit the spice, fish, and meat markets, having stumbled upon the ‘materials market’ already. There, I take video of wholesale seafood auctions in Swahili. Tons of fish, squid, shrimp, and scallops laying on a huge stone tablet while a man in a black t-shirt speaks to a small circle of buyers almost faster than I can comprehend in the language. Very cool, and to me, pretty unique.


            Alafu (then), I go to the night market by the water, which is full of cheap food and small vendors for other various things. I settle on some Zanzibar “pizza”, which was actually an awesome choice. While I’m waiting for it to be cooked over a wood charcoal grill, I have a good conversation about elimu (education) and what Zanzibar ‘needs’ with a baba (father/man) sitting on the boardwalk’s edge overlooking the water.


            The next morning I take a daladala (small bus) for an hour and a half to Kendwa on the northern part of the island. The area is known for its beautiful beaches and relaxing nature. The daladalas here are more open, like being in the back of a long pick-up truck with a roof over your head. As with all the daladalas in Tanzania, it’s quite cramped, but I like seeing how the locals travel. Meanwhile my buttocks and back aren’t quite as thrilled…


            I arrive around noon, and I have to say the beaches do not disappoint. This is my likizo, or vacation. Let’s just say I have a feeling the “Photo Friday” picture might be from Kendwa…




A small beach front I stumbled upon on the coast of Stone Town.

Friday, May 31, 2013

Photo Friday Round III


Week 3: May 25 – May 31

(Wiki Tatu: Ishirini na Tano Mei mpaka Thelathini na Moja Mei)


A private nursery school near Amani that I visited this week. The school was started by the woman on the right, from her own money on her own property, to make sure kids went to primary school (afterwards). Some kids pay what they can, others do not pay at all. Remarkable what one person can do.

And, the kids were literally attached to my arms and hands. I wish I could take their laughter with me wherever I go for the rest of my life!